Dormer specialists · UK-wide
The room is already there. It just needs standing height.
We design, build and weatherproof dormer windows and dormer loft conversions — from a single flat roof dormer to a full-width rear dormer with an en-suite.
- Free measured survey — we tell you what the roof will actually take
- One fixed written price covering scaffold, structure, roofing and glazing
- Building control managed end to end — completion certificate included
- 10-year structural and 20-year flat roofing guarantees
Book your free measured survey
Tell us the address and what you want to gain. We'll come back within one working day.
No obligation · No pushy follow-up · Fixed written price
Detail-led, not price-led
Flashings, soakers, back gutters and upstands are specified on the drawing, not decided on the scaffold.
One contract, one contact
Structure, roofing, glazing, plastering and sign-off under a single quotation — no coordinating four trades.
Weathertight before we leave
The roof is opened only once everything is on site, and made weathertight the same phase.
Signed off, not just built
Completion certificate in your hand — the document a buyer's surveyor will ask for.
The catalogue
Ten dormer forms, and everything that goes with them
Each drawing below is the actual roof geometry — because choosing between a hipped and a gable-fronted dormer is a decision about your roofline, not a menu item.
Dormer types
10 optionsFlat Roof Dormers
The most space-efficient dormer — a flat-topped box that squares off the roof slope.
Learn morePitched Roof Dormers
A miniature pitched roof over the dormer — the traditional, period-correct option.
Learn moreGable-Fronted Dormers
A pitched dormer with a vertical gable face — the classic 'dog-house' front elevation.
Learn moreHipped Roof Dormers
Three sloping faces instead of a gable — softer, and often easier to get past planning.
Learn moreShed Dormers
A single shallow slope running with the main roof — wide, low and understated.
Learn moreFull-Width Rear Dormers
Wall-to-wall across the back of the roof — the biggest gain in usable floor area.
Learn moreL-Shaped Dormers
A rear dormer joined to a second over the outrigger — the Victorian terrace answer.
Learn moreBox Dormers
A simple squared projection — the workhorse dormer for bedrooms and bathrooms.
Learn moreEyebrow Dormers
A curved, brow-like swell in the roof — no cheeks, no vertical faces.
Learn moreCat Slide Dormers
The main roof continues down past the dormer — a soft, cottage-style profile.
Learn moreConversions & installs
5 optionsDormer Loft Conversions
The full job — structure, dormer, stairs, insulation, plaster and building control sign-off.
Learn moreBungalow Dormer Conversions
Turn a bungalow's roof void into a first floor — often doubling the footprint.
Learn moreVelux to Dormer Conversions
Already have rooflights? Convert the slope to a dormer and gain standing height.
Learn moreDormer Window Installation
Supply and fit of the window itself into new or existing dormer openings.
Learn moreDormer Window Replacement
Swap tired, draughty or rotten dormer windows without touching the structure.
Learn moreWindows & glazing
5 optionsuPVC Dormer Windows
Low maintenance, well insulated and the most cost-effective frame for a dormer.
Learn moreTimber Dormer Windows
Engineered hardwood or softwood — the right answer on period and listed roofs.
Learn moreAluminium Dormer Windows
Thermally broken aluminium — the slimmest frames and the largest possible glass area.
Learn moreSash Dormer Windows
Vertical sliding sashes sized and detailed for a dormer opening.
Learn moreConservation Dormer Windows
Heritage-profile dormers and glazing for conservation areas and listed buildings.
Learn moreCladding, roofing & repair
4 optionsDormer Cladding
Re-clad tired dormer cheeks and faces in tile, lead, zinc, timber or GRP.
Learn moreGRP Fibreglass Dormer Roofing
Seamless glass-reinforced polyester on flat dormer tops — no joints, no seams.
Learn moreLead & Zinc Dormer Roofing
Traditional code lead and standing-seam zinc for dormer roofs, cheeks and flashings.
Learn moreDormer Window Repairs
Leaks, rot, failed flashings, blown units and draughts — diagnosed and put right.
Learn moreThe honest version
Most dormer problems are junction problems
A dormer is not a difficult thing to build. It is a difficult thing to build watertight, because it creates five new junctions where there were none: two cheek-to-roof soakers, an apron at the front, a back gutter behind, and the abutment where the whole thing meets the main covering.
Every one of those has to be detailed on a drawing, sized correctly, and installed in the right order. When a dormer leaks — and we get called to a lot of them — the failure is at one of those five points roughly nine times out of ten. It is almost never the window, which is why replacing the window rarely fixes it.
What that means for your quote
You will see quotations that are two thousand pounds apart on what looks like the same job. The difference is usually in what has been specified at those junctions: code 4 lead versus a bead of mastic, a formed back gutter versus a strip of flashing tape, a warm roof build-up versus insulation stuffed between rafters with no vapour control layer.
We put all of it on the drawing before you sign anything, so you can compare like for like. Everything is priced from a measured survey, not a phone call — which is why our quotations tend to be the ones that still hold at the end of the job.
What you gain
- Floor area, not just daylight. A rooflight gives you light. A dormer gives you a vertical wall you can put a wardrobe against and a ceiling you can stand under.
- Habitable floor area on a valuation. Signed off by building control, the space counts. Without a completion certificate, surveyors will not include it.
- A room that works in August. A properly insulated warm roof with a continuous VCL is the difference between a bedroom and a loft with a bed in it.
How a dormer gets built
Seven stages, in this order, every time
The sequence matters. Most dormer problems come from doing one of these out of order — glazing before the flashings, or opening the roof before the materials land.
Survey and feasibility
A specialist measures the roof, checks ridge height, span and structure, and confirms whether you are inside permitted development.
Design and consent
Measured drawings, elevations and sections. We submit the planning application or lawful development certificate and the building regulations application.
Scaffold and protection
Scaffold designed, erected and inspected. Temporary weather protection over the work area before anything is opened.
Structure
Ridge beam and floor steels craned or manhandled in, new joists laid, the dormer frame built and sheathed.
Weatherproofing
Deck, insulation, membrane or lead, cheek cladding, flashings and gutters — the dormer is weathertight from this point.
Glazing
Windows fitted square, sealed and drained, with escape-compliant opening lights where required.
Finish and sign-off
Plaster, electrics, decoration and making good, final building control inspection and your completion certificate.
What homeowners say
Judged on the junctions, not the sales pitch
“The survey was the useful bit — he told us the ridge height wouldn't take what we'd been sold elsewhere, and offered a shed dormer instead. Glad we listened.”
— Homeowner, the UK“Scaffold went up on the Monday, roof was open and weathertight by the Thursday. No drama, no surprises on the invoice.”
— Homeowner, the UK“We'd had two leaks patched by other firms. They traced it to the back gutter in an hour and it hasn't come back since.”
— Homeowner, the UKComments shown are representative of feedback received. Verified reviews are being collected from launch.
FAQs
Dormer questions, answered properly
Can a dormer include an en-suite?
Very often, yes — a full-width or L-shaped dormer usually has enough floor area for a bedroom plus a shower room. The practical constraints are getting soil and waste down to an existing stack, and whether the head height over the shower tray works. Both are settled at survey.
Can you build a dormer in winter?
Yes, with adjustments. Temporary weather protection over the scaffold lets structural work continue in most conditions. GRP roofing needs dry conditions above about 5°C to cure properly, so in a cold spell we either sequence it differently or specify EPDM, which is unaffected.
Do I need planning permission for a dormer window?
Rear dormers on a house often fall under permitted development, provided the dormer is set at least 200mm back from the eaves, sits below the ridge line, uses materials similar in appearance to the existing house, and stays within the volume allowance — 40m³ for a terrace, 50m³ for a semi or detached. Front-facing dormers, flats and maisonettes, listed buildings, conservation areas and any property with an Article 4 direction all need a full planning application. We check the constraints on your specific address before we quote.
How long does a dormer take to build?
A single box or flat roof dormer is typically three to five weeks on site. A full-width rear dormer runs five to eight weeks, and an L-shaped dormer on a terrace with an outrigger is closer to seven to ten. A complete dormer loft conversion including the staircase, services and finishes is usually eight to twelve weeks from scaffold up to sign-off.
Does a dormer need building regulations approval?
Yes, always — permitted development covers planning, not building control. A dormer needs approval for structure, thermal performance under Part L, fire escape and protected route under Part B, and stairs under Part K if a staircase is involved. We handle the application, the inspections and the completion certificate.
What is the best roof covering for a flat dormer?
GRP fibreglass and EPDM rubber are the two we specify most. GRP cures into a single seamless laminate with bonded trims and suits small tops with several upstands. EPDM is a one-piece membrane that copes better with movement on larger spans. Both carry twenty-year guarantees; mineral felt is cheaper but has a materially shorter life.
Can I put a dormer on the front of my house?
Front-facing dormers are not covered by permitted development and always need a full planning application. Approval depends heavily on the street scene — planners look at whether other dormers already exist on the road, and at proportion, position and materials. Hipped and pitched forms are approved far more often than flat boxes on a front elevation.
Will a dormer add value to my house?
A properly built and signed-off dormer conversion adding a bedroom and bathroom typically returns a meaningful share of its cost in value, and more in areas where floor space is scarce. The building control completion certificate is what makes the space count as habitable floor area on a valuation — without it, surveyors will not include it.
Coverage
Areas we cover
Specialist dormer teams across England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland — 74 counties and 675 towns and cities.
Find out what your roof will take
A free measured survey tells you what is achievable, what it needs, and what it costs — before you commit to anything.