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Dormer specialists · UK-wide

The room is already there. It just needs standing height.

We design, build and weatherproof dormer windows and dormer loft conversions — from a single flat roof dormer to a full-width rear dormer with an en-suite.

  • Free measured survey — we tell you what the roof will actually take
  • One fixed written price covering scaffold, structure, roofing and glazing
  • Building control managed end to end — completion certificate included
  • 10-year structural and 20-year flat roofing guarantees

Book your free measured survey

Tell us the address and what you want to gain. We'll come back within one working day.

No obligation · No pushy follow-up · Fixed written price

Free measured surveyA specialist visits, measures and tells you what the roof will and will not take.
Fixed written priceOne quotation covering structure, scaffold, weatherproofing, glazing and making good.
Building control managedWe submit, book the inspections and hand you the completion certificate.
Insured and guaranteed£5m public liability, ten-year structural and twenty-year flat roofing guarantees.
Nationwide coverageDirectly employed and vetted specialist teams across England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland.

Detail-led, not price-led

Flashings, soakers, back gutters and upstands are specified on the drawing, not decided on the scaffold.

One contract, one contact

Structure, roofing, glazing, plastering and sign-off under a single quotation — no coordinating four trades.

Weathertight before we leave

The roof is opened only once everything is on site, and made weathertight the same phase.

Signed off, not just built

Completion certificate in your hand — the document a buyer's surveyor will ask for.

The catalogue

Ten dormer forms, and everything that goes with them

Each drawing below is the actual roof geometry — because choosing between a hipped and a gable-fronted dormer is a decision about your roofline, not a menu item.

The honest version

Most dormer problems are junction problems

A dormer is not a difficult thing to build. It is a difficult thing to build watertight, because it creates five new junctions where there were none: two cheek-to-roof soakers, an apron at the front, a back gutter behind, and the abutment where the whole thing meets the main covering.

Every one of those has to be detailed on a drawing, sized correctly, and installed in the right order. When a dormer leaks — and we get called to a lot of them — the failure is at one of those five points roughly nine times out of ten. It is almost never the window, which is why replacing the window rarely fixes it.

What that means for your quote

You will see quotations that are two thousand pounds apart on what looks like the same job. The difference is usually in what has been specified at those junctions: code 4 lead versus a bead of mastic, a formed back gutter versus a strip of flashing tape, a warm roof build-up versus insulation stuffed between rafters with no vapour control layer.

We put all of it on the drawing before you sign anything, so you can compare like for like. Everything is priced from a measured survey, not a phone call — which is why our quotations tend to be the ones that still hold at the end of the job.

Indicative guide prices. Our online tool gives a realistic range in about a minute — pick your dormer type, width, finish and scope. Get an indicative price →

What you gain

  • Floor area, not just daylight. A rooflight gives you light. A dormer gives you a vertical wall you can put a wardrobe against and a ceiling you can stand under.
  • Habitable floor area on a valuation. Signed off by building control, the space counts. Without a completion certificate, surveyors will not include it.
  • A room that works in August. A properly insulated warm roof with a continuous VCL is the difference between a bedroom and a loft with a bed in it.

How a dormer gets built

Seven stages, in this order, every time

The sequence matters. Most dormer problems come from doing one of these out of order — glazing before the flashings, or opening the roof before the materials land.

01

Survey and feasibility

A specialist measures the roof, checks ridge height, span and structure, and confirms whether you are inside permitted development.

02

Design and consent

Measured drawings, elevations and sections. We submit the planning application or lawful development certificate and the building regulations application.

03

Scaffold and protection

Scaffold designed, erected and inspected. Temporary weather protection over the work area before anything is opened.

04

Structure

Ridge beam and floor steels craned or manhandled in, new joists laid, the dormer frame built and sheathed.

05

Weatherproofing

Deck, insulation, membrane or lead, cheek cladding, flashings and gutters — the dormer is weathertight from this point.

06

Glazing

Windows fitted square, sealed and drained, with escape-compliant opening lights where required.

07

Finish and sign-off

Plaster, electrics, decoration and making good, final building control inspection and your completion certificate.

What homeowners say

Judged on the junctions, not the sales pitch

“The survey was the useful bit — he told us the ridge height wouldn't take what we'd been sold elsewhere, and offered a shed dormer instead. Glad we listened.”

— Homeowner, the UK

“Scaffold went up on the Monday, roof was open and weathertight by the Thursday. No drama, no surprises on the invoice.”

— Homeowner, the UK

“We'd had two leaks patched by other firms. They traced it to the back gutter in an hour and it hasn't come back since.”

— Homeowner, the UK

Comments shown are representative of feedback received. Verified reviews are being collected from launch.

FAQs

Dormer questions, answered properly

Can a dormer include an en-suite?

Very often, yes — a full-width or L-shaped dormer usually has enough floor area for a bedroom plus a shower room. The practical constraints are getting soil and waste down to an existing stack, and whether the head height over the shower tray works. Both are settled at survey.

Can you build a dormer in winter?

Yes, with adjustments. Temporary weather protection over the scaffold lets structural work continue in most conditions. GRP roofing needs dry conditions above about 5°C to cure properly, so in a cold spell we either sequence it differently or specify EPDM, which is unaffected.

Do I need planning permission for a dormer window?

Rear dormers on a house often fall under permitted development, provided the dormer is set at least 200mm back from the eaves, sits below the ridge line, uses materials similar in appearance to the existing house, and stays within the volume allowance — 40m³ for a terrace, 50m³ for a semi or detached. Front-facing dormers, flats and maisonettes, listed buildings, conservation areas and any property with an Article 4 direction all need a full planning application. We check the constraints on your specific address before we quote.

How long does a dormer take to build?

A single box or flat roof dormer is typically three to five weeks on site. A full-width rear dormer runs five to eight weeks, and an L-shaped dormer on a terrace with an outrigger is closer to seven to ten. A complete dormer loft conversion including the staircase, services and finishes is usually eight to twelve weeks from scaffold up to sign-off.

Does a dormer need building regulations approval?

Yes, always — permitted development covers planning, not building control. A dormer needs approval for structure, thermal performance under Part L, fire escape and protected route under Part B, and stairs under Part K if a staircase is involved. We handle the application, the inspections and the completion certificate.

What is the best roof covering for a flat dormer?

GRP fibreglass and EPDM rubber are the two we specify most. GRP cures into a single seamless laminate with bonded trims and suits small tops with several upstands. EPDM is a one-piece membrane that copes better with movement on larger spans. Both carry twenty-year guarantees; mineral felt is cheaper but has a materially shorter life.

Can I put a dormer on the front of my house?

Front-facing dormers are not covered by permitted development and always need a full planning application. Approval depends heavily on the street scene — planners look at whether other dormers already exist on the road, and at proportion, position and materials. Hipped and pitched forms are approved far more often than flat boxes on a front elevation.

Will a dormer add value to my house?

A properly built and signed-off dormer conversion adding a bedroom and bathroom typically returns a meaningful share of its cost in value, and more in areas where floor space is scarce. The building control completion certificate is what makes the space count as habitable floor area on a valuation — without it, surveyors will not include it.

Read all frequently asked questions →

Find out what your roof will take

A free measured survey tells you what is achievable, what it needs, and what it costs — before you commit to anything.

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